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wba



Joined: 04 Jul 2008
Posts: 85
Location: Narrabeen

PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 7:50 pm    Post subject: Press Progress Reply with quote

Today with some help I started to make my press. The molds are ready, and I will be putting the concrete in them during the week. Thanks to Dave K for the uncut blank.

Here is a pic.


I will update this thread as I make progress. Cant wait to make some boards.
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Skull has Returned



Joined: 08 Sep 2006
Posts: 1803
Location: Melbourne Sth East

PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 8:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well done young fella, progress looks good. Very Happy
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mosu101
forum admin


Joined: 08 Jan 2005
Posts: 3482
Location: Maroubra

PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok Im confused... how does this box work as a press?

Or is this box just for pouring concrete for the mould of the concave to use to press the blanks?
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wba



Joined: 04 Jul 2008
Posts: 85
Location: Narrabeen

PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mosu101 wrote:
ok Im confused... how does this box work as a press?

Or is this box just for pouring concrete for the mould of the concave to use to press the blanks?


Yeah, it is just the mold at the moment. I am in the process of getting the materials for the actual press.
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GroundHangers



Joined: 17 Mar 2005
Posts: 1515
Location: BTS Blacktown Skates - blacktownskates@iprimus.com.au

PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What psi or tonnage will the molds be stressed at?
Even run at only about 2 ton, i would recommend a lot more reo. They crack really easy at that thickness, which looks like about a 3 bagger each half, when 5 bags is more the minimum. Anything under two ton will produce a soggy loose board with very little pop and de-lam easily, which i call Wheat Bix boards. By looking at that mold i recon they will only withstand a ton to a ton and a half and thats with a hardner and Bondcrete mix.
You would get a better result making half the mold first and then mirror clone the other half rather than using a blank sandwich, you will limit uneven glue spread and varied lam thicknesses throughout the deck and also get a much truer press, limiting stress cracking the mold due to a slight unevenness.

Im not trying to diss on your work or anything im just giving you the drum on some critical elements needed in part the process. Neat idea or the mold though, looks pro.
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wba



Joined: 04 Jul 2008
Posts: 85
Location: Narrabeen

PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GroundHangers wrote:
What psi or tonnage will the molds be stressed at?
Even run at only about 2 ton, i would recommend a lot more reo. They crack really easy at that thickness, which looks like about a 3 bagger each half, when 5 bags is more the minimum. Anything under two ton will produce a soggy loose board with very little pop and de-lam easily, which i call Wheat Bix boards. By looking at that mold i recon they will only withstand a ton to a ton and a half and thats with a hardner and Bondcrete mix.
You would get a better result making half the mold first and then mirror clone the other half rather than using a blank sandwich, you will limit uneven glue spread and varied lam thicknesses throughout the deck and also get a much truer press, limiting stress cracking the mold due to a slight unevenness.

Im not trying to diss on your work or anything im just giving you the drum on some critical elements needed in part the process. Neat idea or the mold though, looks pro.


No, I understand what you are saying, they are very valid points. I am going by these plans from diyskate.com http://www.diyskate.com/concrete_mold_02.html

What do you mean about uneven glue spread and laminate thickness?

This is my first ever go at making a mold so I would be pretty happy if it worked Smile It is all an experiment really.
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Skull has Returned



Joined: 08 Sep 2006
Posts: 1803
Location: Melbourne Sth East

PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went for the other mold on that site , the Mould number 1.
http://www.diyskate.com/mold_01.html
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Michael Mulhall



Joined: 19 Jan 2005
Posts: 1953
Location: The Dock Mate!

PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have to agree with Greg in regards to using a blank for both sides of the mould. Even the most perfect blank is still gonna have glue and laminate thickness variations. Always better to make the negative off the positive. Bit more work, but worth it in the long run.

Take heed of Gregs advice. Nothin worse than a soggy sao. I went through 3 decks in 2 vert sessions on a major Aussie brand once. But I was skating in KL heat at the time.
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wba



Joined: 04 Jul 2008
Posts: 85
Location: Narrabeen

PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Michael Mulhall wrote:
I have to agree with Greg in regards to using a blank for both sides of the mould. Even the most perfect blank is still gonna have glue and laminate thickness variations. Always better to make the negative off the positive. Bit more work, but worth it in the long run.

Take heed of Gregs advice. Nothin worse than a soggy sao. I went through 3 decks in 2 vert sessions on a major Aussie brand once. But I was skating in KL heat at the time.


Ok, I think I understand now.

So the best was to do it is to, make one half of the mold then make the other half of the mold using the already made side of the mold?

I will probally go ahead with the way I am going for now as this is my first go at this. But next time I make another mold (sounds soon) I will do it the way you guys have suggested.

Thanks for the helpfull tips.
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fitz



Joined: 30 Mar 2006
Posts: 815
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm gonna chuck my 2c in here aswell.
The reo should be nowhere near the middle of the slab!
30-50mm from the face.
Think along the lines of how fibreglass re-inforces a skate deck. All the flex will be closest to the outer skins.
Of course the re-o' can't go on the surface, so it should go as close as possible. You also need a strong enough skin hence the 30-50mm gap.
I'd even be using reo' both top and bottom.
Great job on the mould Very Happy
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GroundHangers



Joined: 17 Mar 2005
Posts: 1515
Location: BTS Blacktown Skates - blacktownskates@iprimus.com.au

PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
So the best was to do it is to, make one half of the mold then make the other half of the mold using the already made side of the mold?


Thats pretty much it. And like Fitz said, Id at least chuck more reo in before pouring, that way even if it does crack youll still be able to use it again.

Quote:
Nothin worse than a soggy sao.

Some may differ on that statement.
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j56speed



Joined: 05 Apr 2007
Posts: 23
Location: Leichhardt

PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2009 9:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey man, not sure you need to go make a concrete mould to bend ply... and not sure Canadian maple HAS to be used... me, I just bend my ply over a 1200mm span and use water based wood glue .... mould is a 4x2 pine jig and pressed with 18 wood clamps...... total 12 ply and strong as .....

The result is low ride with flex and strength... have been bending boards for years for friends and none have snapped...
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j56speed



Joined: 05 Apr 2007
Posts: 23
Location: Leichhardt

PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2009 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://s191.photobucket.com/albums/z71/j56speed/?action=view&current=Test1.jpg
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Squidie



Joined: 19 Mar 2009
Posts: 20
Location: SA

PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

j56speed wrote:
Hey man, not sure you need to go make a concrete mould to bend ply... and not sure Canadian maple HAS to be used... me, I just bend my ply over a 1200mm span and use water based wood glue .... mould is a 4x2 pine jig and pressed with 18 wood clamps...... total 12 ply and strong as .....

The result is low ride with flex and strength... have been bending boards for years for friends and none have snapped...


What wood do you use?
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Skull has Returned



Joined: 08 Sep 2006
Posts: 1803
Location: Melbourne Sth East

PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tend to agree, I've been using a bolt down wood and steel press since 1977 and apart from a couple of bad glue issues never had a problem.
These types of presses tend not to last and require a bit more maintanance, but are also easier to adjust and change to different concaves etc.
I have never used maple and find local timbers are quite acceptable and havent had one snap yet. Check out the pics of my boards and you can see the results.
The concrete moulds are a great thing if you are interested in making boards in more commercial quantities, however its retricted to the one curve.
So if you want to make many different concaves and kicktails or make a copy of an old deck you are better off with an adjustable wood/steel set up.
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